Building 
        an ANSI Type-2 Opto-Coupler  | 
  
   
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        This work is licensed under a Creative 
        Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported License. 
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      The ANSI 
        Type-2 opto-coupler simply converts an RS232 serial connection from electrical 
        signals to infrared signals. There is no modification whatsoever of the 
        signals. Another technology called IrDA 
        is similar but NOT THE SAME and is NOT COMPATIBLE. Given how basic the 
        operation of the opto-coupler is I was shocked to discover that they cost 
        $100's so I decided to make my own and you can too. 
      This project 
        requires advanced ninja soldering skills, you have to solder very tiny 
        surface mount components onto a PCB. If you have not soldered before, 
        then this is not the project for you. You will need a fine-tip soldering 
        iron and uncaffinated motor skills. A reasonably long index finger nail 
        is also of great use holding the tiny components down while soldering, 
        so let that one grow out a little before starting the project. 
      Overview 
      There are 
        two parts to the project, the printed circuit board (PCB) and the enclosure. 
        The PCB can be ordered for a nominal amount from batchpcb.com, 
        or you are welcome to download the gerber files 
        and have it made somewhere else. The components can be purchased as a 
        project 
        from mouser.com. There are no specialized components in the project. 
        However, mouser tends to churn generic products, so the basic diode part 
        number that was fine last year, isn't available this year. Therefore CHECK 
        THE AVAILABILITY of every component on the project list before purchasing 
        it otherwise you may wait 6 months to receive a generic signal diode when 
        dozens of compatible parts were available to ship immediately. The enclosure 
        consists of two pieces, the body and the lid. It can be made by downloading 
        and 3D printing these STL files. The best 
        results I've gotten from 3D printing were using the Polyjet Blue HD from 
        ZoomRP. It cost approximately $130 
        to get both pieces printed, which is expensive, but less than the price 
        of a new opto-coupler.  | 
  
   
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      Project 
        Files 
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        Schematic of ANSI Type 2 Optical Probe (Opto-Coupler)
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      Theory 
        of Operation 
      This 
        circuit converts RS232 signals from electrical to IR optical pulses. It 
        is designed specifically to connect to the ANSI 12.18 optical port found 
        on many American electrical utility meters. However, it is a completely 
        generic circuit and can be used for almost any RS232 over IR application. 
         
        The data polarity is as follows: 
        LED on, start bit, space, logical 0  
        LED off, stop bit, mark, logical 1, quiescent state 
         
        The circuit is powered from the PC serial port outputs; DTR, RTS & 
        TD. DTR and RTS are handshake signals, typically they are both at +12V, 
        but this can vary depending on how the software configures the PC serial 
        port. When DTR or RTS are at +12V they charge C1 through D2 and D6 respectively. 
        When they are at -12V they charge C2 through D7 and D3 respectively. The 
        TD line is mostly at -12V, so it is used to also charge C2 through D4. 
        This guarantees a negative supply, because in many applications DTR and 
        RTS won�t go negative. The actual voltage generated on the supplies 
        will depend on the levels to which the particular PC or USB dongle drives 
        the signal lines. 
         
        Connecting the signals DSR (Data Set Ready) and DCD (Data Carrier Detect) 
        to the DTR (Data Terminal Ready) and the CTS (Clear To Send) to the RTS 
        (Ready To Send) takes care of any hand shaking the PC software may want 
        to do. Diode D5 protects the LED (D1) when TD is lower than -5V, because 
        its maximum permitted reverse voltage is only 5V. R1 limits the current 
        through D1 when TD is high. 
         
        The non-inverting input (pin-4) to the comparator U1 is pulled to the 
        negative supply by R3 when the photo-transistor PT1 is off. When PT1 detects 
        infra red light and switches on, it pulls the input to the positive supply. 
        The potentiometer R4 is used to set the threshold at which the comparator 
        switches. Typically it will be adjusted so that the inverting input (pin-3) 
        is around 0V. Use an oscilloscope to set this voltage at the midpoint 
        of whatever swing is observed at pin-4 when PT1 detects IR (or just leave 
        it centered). Resistor R2 is just a pull-up resistor for the open-collector 
        output of the comparator. 
      The 
        circuit is designed to be operated remotely at the end of a long cable. 
        As an 8-conductor cable was required, the cheapest highest quality cable 
        readily available is CAT5 or CAT6 network cable. Therefore, the circuit 
        is designed to have a standard 8-pin RJ45 socket (like a typical Ethernet 
        socket). There is a standard called EIA-561 that defines the pin-out to 
        use for RS232 on RJ45 connectors. This is the pin-out used in this schematic. 
        Typically the PC will have a 9-pin D-Type connector. Therefore you will 
        need a 9-pin D-Type Female �Modular to Sub-D� adapter kit 
        to make the connection to the PC. 
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              Completed ANSI T2 Printed Circuit Board 
              click to embiggen | 
          PCB 
              Construction Notes 
            Start 
              with the IC U1, then the diodes, the resistors, the potentiometer, 
              the capacitors and finally the socket. 
            To 
              solder on a component, first melt a very small amount of solder 
              onto one PCB pad of its footprint. Then position the component holding 
              it down with your index finger nail (kept slightly long). You could 
              also use a tweezers, but your finger nails works better. Then heat 
              the component pin placed over the pad that you put solder on earlier. 
              This will solder than one pin to the PCB and keep the devices positioned 
              while you solder its other pins. 
            The 
              capacitors are polarized, make sure you solder then on the correct 
              way. 
            Don't 
              solder the LED and photo transistor just yet, unless it's just temporary 
              to test the circuit out.  | 
         
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    Testing 
      The opto-coupler 
        is powered from the serial port, so it will only work if its hooked up 
        to an active (i.e. open) serial port. The easiest way to do this is using 
        a terminal emulator program like Realterm. 
        Once you're hooked up and the port is open it should look something like 
        this: 
        
      The CTS, 
        DCD & DSR bits are all active because they're hooked up to the DTR 
        & RTS signals. Now check that the +ve and -ve rails (which are easy 
        to check on the ends of the two capacitors) are correct. They should be 
        about+/- 5V for a USB to serial dongle and perhaps +/- 9V for a standard 
        PC serial port. If you solder the LED in and view it through the screen 
        of a digital camera, you will see the IR flash when you transmit some 
        data. You can use the "Send" tab of Realterm to do this.  
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                  Inside of the 3D printed enclosure showing the recesses for 
                  the magnets that hold the opto-coupler to the utility meter. 
                  The grove at the back end is to hold a rubber seal you can use 
                  to help weather proof the enclosure. 
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              The exterior of the enclosure showing the holes for the LED & 
              photo transistor There is a hole in the enclosure lid to facilitate 
              attaching a label requesting the meter reader to replace the opto-coupler 
              when done. | 
           
         
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          Install 
            the two magnets, the LED and the photo transistor. The LED is clear, 
            the photo transistor is black. The enclosure is designed to help you 
            keep the polarity correct. The 
            magnets are 3/8" diameter x 1/8" thick and will press 
            fit into the recesses in the enclosure. Buy the strongest magnets 
            you can. Seal everything in with a layer of silicone glue, but be 
            careful not to get glue on the component leads.   | 
         
        
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          Place 
              a bead of silicone on the enclosure underneath and on each side 
              of the RJ45 socket's position, then slip the PCB down onto the leads 
              of the LED & photo transistor. Solder the connections and snip 
              the excess leads. Then fill the area above the circuit board with 
              silicone glue. Try and seal in everything to keep water away from 
              the circuitry and the back of the RJ45 socket.  
            Finally 
              put a bead of silicone across the top of the socket and around the 
              inside of the lib, then press the lid on. At this point the electronics 
              inside the opto-coupler should be completely sealed against water. 
            This 
              picture also shows the CAT5 cable that is used by the design and 
              the 9-pin D-Type Female �Modular to Sub-D� adapter to 
              convert an RJ45 plug into a female 9-pin D-Type connector suitable 
              to plug into a PC serial port. RS232 interfaces are extremely robust, 
              this probe should easily operate over hundreds of feet of CAT5 cable. 
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